Mi2Sweets – Reality check

01/02: Reality check

You know that old axiom, “truth is stranger than fiction?” Well, perhaps. But “truth” isn’t always as entertaining or as palatable. I mean, does anyone really want to know how much that crazy fondant-laden wedding cake on Ace of Cakes actually costs? It just looks cool. Who wants to suffer sticker shock? That would be a serious downer. In the world of reality television, oftentimes it takes a little creative intervention (aka editing) to jack up the entertainment value, especially when it comes to “foodie” shows like Top Chef, Food Network Challenges, Hell’s Kitchen, etc.

For most people I guess it’s the thrill of the challenge/competition and the foibles of the participants that compels them to watch. For me, not so much. It would be easy to say that, as a food professional, I’ve seen it all before–the temper tantrums, the creative meltdowns, the colossal equipment failures, etc.–and it’s nothing new. But that’s really not it–though there is nothing like trying to fit an entire collapsed walk-in full of food into another one at already full capacity during a 100 degree heat wave (now that’s drama). Like everyone else, my heart still thunders and stomach lurches when I see a beautiful wedding cake collapse or slide off its stand, especially when I personally know how long it takes to create one of those masterpieces. It just pains me more to watch “culinary professionals” (or in the case of Hell’s Kitchen, wannabes) slugging it out in what looks more like a smack-talking foodie version of WWF than the original Iron Chef, which for all its theatrical flourishes, was still a competition focused skill and creativity. Sure the participants were definitely out to prove themselves, to earn some bragging rights–I am or I beat the Iron Chef–but they obviously wouldn’t have made it that far if they weren’t supremely gifted and loved their profession.

Given the cult of personality built up around this disturbing trend of the “next food network star” it’s not all that surprising to see more and more culinary professionals and novices step into the ring. In a bad economy, it can’t hurt to do a little self promotion, right? So what if there is a good chance you’re going to come off looking like a complete ass in the process. Even those individuals who “come off badly” still manage to enjoy a certain level fame, months, sometimes years after the fact–oh the joys of marathon weekends of cooking shows. Reality television shows by their very nature (and I use the term “reality” loosely) churn out “personalities”(and I use that term loosely too) faster than McDonald cranks out McNuggets. Heidi Montag –need I say more? I’m not suggesting that everyone who participates in these “reality” food shows is willing to trade their self-respect for their 15 mins. of fame–and potential fortune. Some people are genuinely passionate about their craft and it shows through in their food. Though I think that it would be naive for anyone to assume that some part of themselves is not going to be compromised in the “editing” process. An entire drama can be built around a five second seemingly innocent sound bite. Hell, just look at the teaser ads!

To be sure, we’ve definitely moved way beyond the often hilariously simple production values of Julia Child and “The French Chef”–and that’s a shame. As many Julia devotees would agree, what made her so much fun to watch was not only her big personality–she made mouth-breathing endearing–but her lust for food, boundless energy and fascination with the art of cooking. No pithy sound bites were ever necessary to convey theatricality of Julia. So she dropped an omelet–but she made damn sure it was a tasty omelet. Wonder why Tom Colichio is always complaining about the chefs not tasting their food before presenting it or not able to master the “basics” like shucking a clam?

In the process of reviewing applications for culinary scholarships, a colleague of mine bemoaned the fact that a disproportionate number of applicants stated their ultimate professional goal was to be the next t.v. star chef and have their own show. Needless to say, those applications ended up in the trash can. I can see poor Julia rolling in her grave.

I’m well aware of the fact that, from a financial standpoint, the entertainment value of presenting only a “bite” of truth outweighs all other considerations. I’m just not convinced that these reality food shows do anything more than promote the networks themselves–because from where I’m sitting, it’s not doing all that much to elevate our profession or preserve its integrity.

Posted January 2nd, 2009

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