Mi2Sweets – Smooth or Chunky?

01/27: Smooth or Chunky?

When the “three amigas” get together it doesn’t really matter where the conversation begins–the price of beer at the Giants game, whether or not one can actually consider escargot and frog’s legs as “to go” food, the gastro-intestinal effects of eating too much takeout–we invariably end up talking dessert. Today the topic was ice cream. Who makes the best? What makes a good ice cream? Do you prefer smooth or chunky? The three of us are pastry chefs so there’s plenty to dissect and analyze.

Well first of all, who makes the best? I think we came to the concensus that no one really makes “the best” though plenty of places make some really good stuff. It just depends on what you’re in the mood for at any given moment. Are you feeling adventurous and want to try something a little more esoteric? Or are you just looking to satisfy your craving for “chewy chocolate” ice cream (yay Swenson’s)? We went to Mitchell’s today and each of us, after having studied their new menu board for about 5 minutes decided, independent of each other, to choose something “tropical” and exotic. Though the “sweet and salty peanut” ice cream grabbed my attention at first, I opted for the mango ice cream because I was feeling a bit nostalgic and wanted something that reminded me of my childhood. Nicole was intrigued by the yummy possibilities of the exotic Peruvian lucuma, which turned out to be a strangely delicious concoction that was slightly starchy (kinda like a sweet potato) with deep caramel undertones. Irene chose the young coconut over the sweet coconut–where else in SF do you get to do that?

As for the question of what makes a good ice cream, aside from the requisite creamy rich texture, I’d have to say–and my cohorts would probably agree with me–a balance of flavors, regardless of whether or not it is of the “chunky” variety. Smooth ice creams (meaning no additional textural components) are deceptively straightforward, but I think are really hard to get right precisely because there are no textural distractions. For example, when I wanted to make a Guinness ice cream, it took more than a few tries to get the flavor just right–how much straight Guinness should I put in the base, should I reduce some of it to get a richer molasses undertone, what other flavors can I add to give the ice cream complexity without confusing the tastebuds?

I love “stuff” in my ice cream as much as the next “Chubby Hubby” afficionado, but again it has to work with the ice cream. Case in point–cherry almond ice cream that was really neither. My tastebuds were expecting a burst of cherry or almond flavor. Instead I got an ok vanilla ice cream with some chunks of cherry (slightly icey) and soggy pieces of sliced almond. Had the ice cream base been infused with, say, toasted almonds or puree of roasted cherries, it might have tasted like something. Or had the cherries been more intense in flavor and the almonds toasted whole and rough chopped, the “chunks” could have taken the plain base out of the ordinary.

After much deliberation, we’ve decided the best ice cream is one that lives up to its name–whether it’s smooth or chunky.

Posted January 27th, 2009

Comments
One Response to “Smooth or Chunky?”

Carissa says:

July 9, 2009 at 10:41 pm

Great analysis. After working on a cruise ship for 5 months, I can never get over how much people love vanilla. I like it, but more as a foundation (sunday, float, cookie sandwich). I did however discover pistachio… it wasn’t good pistachio, but after working a 16 hour day, and crouching in a corner to eat a scoop while you are still soaked with sweat… it was AWESOME. It has become a favorite to make and eat… I love roasting and candying the pistachios before mixing them in at the end of a churn… and can I just say YEA for pistachio paste? Expensive, but rockin’!